The Intergalactic Cowboy

October 29, 2008

Puget Theniers Redux

Filed under: Uncategorized — maxh @ 9:25 pm and


Here is one more photo of the little village of horrors that I spent several tense hours in, as described in my last diary entry. In all fairness to this community, I feel obligated to tell the other side of the story as well.
This village seems like a nice place to live if you speak fluent French and own an automobile. The streets and sidewalks are spotlessly clean. The older buildings had been recently renovated and the newer offices and busineses displayed modern european architecture. The people are well dressed in modern euro styles and have perfect hair. The two young men who were serving as police officers drove up in a new mini panel truck and struck up a jovial converstation with a couple of people walking down the sidewalk. The officers seemed like people who were actually there to help people rather than to harrass the honest, law abiding citizens of the community. The town gives off a feeling of being a low crime town. The young woman in the tourist information office had long, straight blond hair with pouting lips which brought about comparisons with Bridget Bardot. All of the people in this place seemed like pure French people, unadulterated by the filth of America.
My negative experience there was heavily influenced by my upset emotional state at the time. If you like, you can go do an internet search on this village and see more pictures that show the village in a positive light.
Still glad to be out of there,
I.C.

October 28, 2008

Welcome To My Nightmare

Filed under: Uncategorized — maxh @ 9:23 pm and

We left off with me standing at the train station with a pack of dogs or possibly wolves howling in the woods on the other side of the track. At 1:30 pm my train to Nice arrived as scheduled. I knew that this had to be my train because not only was it right on time, but because no other trains had traveled through here since I got off the train that brought me here two hours ago. Oddly, the train began travelling northwest rather than the southeast direction to Nice. Since my train schedule showed that the station was the end of the line, I assumed that the train was just backing up to change tracks and then head southeast. The conductor collected my ticket and said, in French, that my ticket was to Nice. It then sounded like he was telling me that the train was continuing further northwest. Using my limited French skills, I said, ” the train will go to Nice?” The conductor nodded in an affirmative manner and held up five fingers, as if to say “in five minutes.” We then stopped at a train station and the conductor asked me to leave the train. Huh ??? The train station was basically a bus stop along the tracks with no proper village behind it, only a couple of farmhouses and a barn. I wondered if there would be wolves howling in the woods across from this station as well. Why was he asking me to get off ? I did not know how to talk my way out of this in French so, I had to resort to making simple sentences in English such as, ” I would like to stay on this train until we get to Nice. I will be glad to pay.” He shrugged his shoulders in a gesture of saying that I was making a big mistake. At the next station, a southeastern bound train passed us. The conductor then walked up to me and said, ” you see the train to Nice?” I said no. I then asked the other train passengers, ” Se Train va a Nice?” They nodded their heads in an affirmative manner. We then continued further and stopped at a village called Puget Theniers. The conductor then motioned everyone off of the train. WTF ????? Then the train passengers and the conductor walked in the direction of a bus. At this point I panicked and ran up to the conductor saying, ” Msr! Msr! Je voudrais plus informacion!” He then pointed to a different train schedule than the one that I had been using and said “16.30 heures, l’train a Nice.” Then he and the other train passengers left on the bus going who knows where. I then stood outside the small brick train station figuring out what I was supposed to do. Then, a middle aged man with glasses walked away from the bus and then walked toward the station. He looked like an employee of the rail line in his shirt and tie. As he walked up I asked, ” Bonjeur Msr. Je voudrais un billet a Nice sil vous plait.” He responded by making a snide remark to me that I did not understand. I followed him into the station and stood at the ticket window. He sat at a desk behind the window and ignored me, not selling me a train ticket. At this point, my experience was taking on the scary, abandoned quality of a bad trip or a nightmare. I began walking down a road that ran along the edge of the village. My stomach was churning and I was on the verge of having an explosive gastrointestinal attack. Walking into the center of the village, I found a public restroom. Exploring further, I saw a sign that said tourism office. In there was a young woman who spoke no English whatsoever. I asked where the bus station was by saying, ” ou ee l’gare routiere sil vous plait ?” She pointed to the right and said, ” a droit; cent metres.” I then said, ” Je besoin un autobus a nice.” She then dutifully pulled out a bus schedule that showed that there was a bus to Nice at 6:30 that arrived in Nice at 8:30 pm. I thanked her and left. After walking the 100 meters to the right, I found a bus stop, but no bus station selling tickets. I then retreated to the coffee shop in the center of town and ordered a cappucino. The barrister looked upon me with suspicion, as if I was some kind of foreign drifter who didn’t have any business there. As I sat down with my coffee, I realized that he was exactly right. It’s just that I was given misinformation by the people on the train. I sat there wondering if the train, which was still sitting abandoned on the track , was really going to go to Nice at 4:30 pm. I wondered if the bus driver would let me get on the 6:30 bus without a ticket. I saw no hotels or inns in the village. On top of that, the weather had become cloudy, windy and cold. I was wearing a short sleeved shirt, but the locals were wearing light jackets to keep warm. I prayed to God to get me out of this. I then got in touch with the living presence inside my head, hands and heart. This intentional state lasted about thirty seconds until I was overwhelmed by a feeling of impending doom. Eventually, I had overstayed my welcome at the coffee shop and felt that I should leave. But go where ? I ambled back to the train station and walked inside to escape the cold wind. There was another train passenger buying a ticket from the man who had snubbed me earlier. How come the man behind the ticket window was selling the ticket to the other passenger but not to me? I then walked to the ticket window and said the same words that I had said earlier, ” good day sir. I would like a ticket to Nice please.” He then said something in French and looked right at me. I guessed that he was asking if I wanted the next train to Nice so I pointed to the abandoned train and said, ” Oui msr. En l’train ici.” The man then smirked and made an offhand remark to another man in the room with him. He then turned back around and wrote something on a sheet of paper, which he then showed me. He had written 8 euro 20 centimes. He then tapped on the 20 centime number. “Avais Vous?” he said. He was asking me for a 20 centime coin so that he didn’t have to make as much change. I quickly dug into my pocket for the coin and found it. He then handed me my ticket and change. I looked at the abandoned train and saw a woman inside the train, reading a book. I found the train unlocked and sat down. Then, a train engineer came out of the station and started pressing the start button on the instrument panel. After a couple of minutes of false starts the train finally cranked. The engineer then left the train. At 4:30 the train did not leave as scheduled. Nor at 4:35 or 4:40. Dear God let this train start traveling down to Nice ! The anxiety was unnerving. At 4:45 a bus drove into town and stopped. The bus passengers exited the bus and entered the train. It was standing room only. At 4:50 pm the train began travelling south. I thanked God for deliverance from the evil that had befallen me. An hour and a half later, we arrived in Nice and I returned to my hotel. I have since done some internet research on this village and discovered that it is a distance of sixty kilometers from Nice. It also turns out that that there are indeed no hotel accomodations there, only a campground outside the city limits. You can see from the pictures below that it might be a pleasant place to visit if you have reliable transportation out of town. But this was the worst travel predicament that I have ever been in !
With relief,
I.C.

October 27, 2008

Aller Plan du Var

Filed under: Uncategorized — maxh @ 9:17 pm and


Today, I took a train from Nice up into the french maritime alpes to a village called Plan du Var. Nice has a special train station for trains that head north. The train was the size of a greyhound bus and it rocked back and forth for the entire trip. The alps here are not tipped with ice but are forrested and farmed upon terraces. The scenery is unfortunately spoiled by occasional factories and chemical plants.

The village of Plan du Var is about four blocks long. There are two proper restaurants, one boulangerie and one coffee shop. The restaurant employees fortunately speak a little English, because they are unable to understand my French for some reason…

I grabbed a real estate magazine and ate a leasurely lunch and dessert here in the lovely village of Plan du Var. After paying my bill, I strolled to the train station and patiently awaited the 1:40 train to Nice. In the woods, across the train tracks from me, a pack of dogs was howling. Wait a minute; don’t they have wolves in France ? Could this be a pack of wolves howling ? Little did I know that this howling was the audio soundtrack to the next five hours of my life. The events of the remainder of the afternoon were so traumatic that they deserve a diary entry of their very on. I was about to experience the most horrific travel experience of my life !
Get ready,
I.C.

October 26, 2008

Exile On Courbet Street

Filed under: Uncategorized — maxh @ 6:37 pm and


Villefranche Sur Mer was four stops down the train track from Monaco. My exit door wouldn’t open, despite my having pressed the green button three times, so, I had to run to the other end of the car to get out in time. Walking down the stairs from the station, I saw a row of outdoor cafes along the waterfront. The only sidewalk that I could walk on was in between the road and the dock, where numerous sailboats were docked. There was no guard rail to keep me from falling into the water if I lost my balance. At the bottom of the photo above, you can see a few tourists walking on this sidewalk.
Having not eaten yet on this day, I looked at the menus of each cafe, looking for the local dish boullabaise. One cafe served it for 70 euros a bowl and the other for 46 euros a bowl. These charges were equal to a whole days spending money for me and I had to pass. I ended up eating roast duck at a cafe on a side street.
As some of you may know, a couple of chapters of rock and roll history were made in this fishing village. This is where the Rolling Stones recorded their Exile on Main Street album in the early seventies. They rented out on of the villas on the hillside ( see photo again ) and recorded in the basement. All of the band members acquired villas on the Cote and claimed residency here to avoid the 80% tax bracket that they were in, in England at the time.
A lesser known fact is that this community is where Be Bop Deluxe recorded their final album Drastic Plastic in 1978. They also rented out a villa to record in. One day they took a break from recording to celebrate the Queen’s Jubilee. They must have had balloons on their mailbox, because Bill Wyman drove by and assumed that someone from England must be living there and dropped by for a surprise visit. Although Be Bop Deluxe was a successful band at that time, having a rolling stone visit them was a big deal.
I’m sure that both bands got their exercise in this community. V.S.M. , like Monaco, has hundreds of stairs to climb to get anywhere. In fact, the stairways have names, such as Rue de ___. Perhaps the stairways were originally steep streets. Walking back to the station, I saw a couple of fishermen, fishing from the rocks along the waterfront. The water there is so clear that I could see the fish swimming up to the bait under the water. The water was as clear as a swimming pool.
When I arrived at the train station, four women immediately asked me if I spoke English. They were as confused about the train as I was. I told them what I knew and we all took the train to Nice.
Dinner, drinks and to bed,
I.C.

October 25, 2008

Monaco ?

Filed under: Uncategorized — maxh @ 12:26 pm and


My day began with an error in train travel. I bought a ticket to Villefranche sur Mer and was told that the train would leave at 12:26 pm. The final destination for the train was Vintmille. I then noticed that the 11:15 train to Vintmille was running late. Since the 12:26 Vintmille train was stopping at V.S.M., this one will be stopping there also; right ? I ran to the platform for the belated 11:15 train. As I jumped aboard, I asked the passengers if the train was going to V.S.M. They said yes. What they should have said was that the train was stopping at a station on the outskirts of V.S.M., not the actual V.S.M. station. So, the first stop was at a station whose name begins with a B, which I can neither spell nor pronounce. At the next station, I expected to see a sign that said V.S.M., but no ! I had ended up in Monaco, which is technically, a different country than France ! Were they going to ask for my passport ? I got off the train and rode the escalator up to the modern, luxurious train station. The schedule said that a train to Nice would be arriving in an hour, so, I decided to go into town and look around.This small country exhibits even more conspicous consumption than the city that I was in yesterday. There were more Rolls Royces and Ferraris parked here than in Cannes.
Next to the waterfront is a small race track with race cars racing and an announcer announcing in French. It did not seem like a professional race, but rather like a glorified go cart track with race cars instead of go carts. Perhaps some of you readers know more about this than me. Is this event a hobby for rich people ? I bought a souvenir for my mom and walked back to the train station.
Villefranch sur Mer later,
I.C.

October 24, 2008

In Cannes

Filed under: Uncategorized — maxh @ 8:10 am and


I took the train over to Cannes today, Saturday, October 18th. After buying the ticket, I asked the ticket lady what I believed to be translated as, ” from where does the train depart ?” She looked at me with a confused look and started speaking french at ninety miles per hour. I thanked her and left the ticket window, not knowing which platform to stand at. I soon realized that what I had said to her was, ” from where does the train stop?” This question of course did not make sense. Ooops !
The photo above is of either a hotel or an apartment building here. The atmosphere here is even more upscale than in Nice. Here, you find even more Rolex watches, expensive clothes and expensive haircuts. There is even a Rolex watch store on the main drag, down by the waterfront. Regretably, it is difficult to get close to the Palais de Festivals, where they give out the awards for the Cannes Film Festival. The outside of the building is under renovation and there are security guards with walkie talkies keeping people away. I walked by an arts center with a poster advertising numerous symphonies coming up, along with a performance by Iggy Avec Les Stooges.
I walked all over town looking for a restaurant with entrees under $40. I eventually found a place on a side street that served me a piece of fish, a mineral water and a cup of coffee for $37. I have to confess, however, the fish was prepared to perfection.
A toot a’lour,
I.C.

October 23, 2008

Atlanta - Paris - Nice

Filed under: Uncategorized — maxh @ 7:21 am and


Here I am, finally in Nice on October 17th. When this photo was made, I had neither slept nor bathed in about twenty four hours. The nine hour flight from Atlanta to Paris was painful, despite the use of anti-inflammatories and even one prescription pain pill. My pinched nerve did not allow me to escape the pain regardless of how I positioned myself in the seat.
After landing in Paris, they put us on a shuttle and drove us to a terminal that was designed similarly to Dulles airport in Virginia. The terminal had a wide, shallow design and was crowded with passengers and a few french soldiers with automatic weapons. Immigration was easy, with the man behind the window simply stamping my passport and handing it back to me.
While I was waiting for the flight to Nice, I was able to practice my French with the people that worked there. When they heard my accent, they surprisingly switched over to English to finish the conversation. Parisians don’t often accomodate Americans in that way.
The flight to Nice was quick. The Nice airport is clean and modern, with a relaxed attitude. The ticket window for the buses downtown was exactly where the internet article said that it would be. I quickly got a bus downtown. I then walked around the bus station looking for a taxi stand. Would you believe that there is no taxi stand outside the bus station ? I guess that the taxi drivers assume that anyone who would ride a bus would not have the money for a taxi… I walked back into the bus station and asked in french,” Good day madame. I have a question please. Where are the taxis?” She kindly told me in english that I should take a right outside and that the taxis were halfway between here and Massena. I then dragged my suitcase four blocks down the street in search of a taxi. I then stopped and looked at my tour book to find a picture of a taxi sign. The taxi signs are blue, with white letters. I then saw one down the street and finally got a taxi to my hotel.
After putting my bags up I walked out of the front door of the hotel and there was a homeless person, camped out with his sleeping bag, asking for money. I said in french, ” my credit card does not work. I have no money.” He then continued to plead, suspecting that I was indeed lying. I then fished out a 20 centime piece out of my pocket and gave it to him. I then found an automatic teller machine ; punched in the wrong password; but eventually got some money. There were homeless people lying around on each side of the block; not a good introduction to the neighborhood. There were quite a few outdoor cafes and internet points however. I enjoyed a crepe and a french beer at the cafe pictured above.
Cheers,
I.C.

October 22, 2008

Safe In Atlanta

Filed under: Uncategorized — maxh @ 7:03 am and

After eleven hours in the air, I have safely returned to Atlanta and will drive to Thomaston today. In a couple of days, I should have some photos on a disc that I can upload to this site as I give detailed accounts of my experiences of the past week. I wish that there was a way that I could practice the french language skills that I have worked on during this vacation.
A tout a’leur,
I.C.

October 20, 2008

Trip To Plan du Var

Filed under: Uncategorized — maxh @ 1:00 pm and

trip to pdv fine
took wrong train home!
ended up in french village where no one speaks english
nor do they understand my french
anxiety, insecurity, fear were overwhelming
summoned level headed, logical survival skills
fly back to u.s. tomorrow
i.c.

October 19, 2008

In Villefranche Sur Mer

Filed under: Uncategorized — maxh @ 10:03 am and

took wrong train this morning
ended up in monaco; quite embarrasing
finally caught a train to v.s.m.
could be worse, of course
i.c.

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